And it should always be made in a cast iron skillet. [Photographs: Vicky Wasik]
I'm about to touch the third rail of Southern food. Well, actually,
one
of the third rails of Southern food, for when it comes to defining how
certain beloved dishes should or should not be made, Southerners can get
downright touchy. But, sometimes a truth is so self-evident that you
can't present an impartial case for both sides. So I'm just going to say
it: sugar has no business in cornbread.
Neither, for that matter, does wheat flour. One might make something
quite tasty with well-sweetened wheat flour mixed with cornmeal, but be
honest with yourself and call it a dessert. Cornbread is something else.
Now for a less personal perspective.
Much of the sugar/no sugar debate comes down to how one's grandmother
made cornbread (and my grandmother didn't let a speck of sugar enter
her batter). There are plenty of otherwise perfectly normal Southerners
(my wife, for instance) whose grandmothers put sugar in cornbread. And
there's a good explanation for why they did it. It all comes down to the
nature of modern cornmeal.
Daily Bread
But, first, a word on cornbread and Southerness. A lot of corn is
grown in places like Iowa and Illinois, and Americans in all parts of
the country have long made breads, cakes, and muffins from cornmeal. But
for some reason, cornbread itself is still associated primarily with
the South.
"The North thinks it knows how to make cornbread, but this is gross
superstition," Mark Twain wrote in his autobiography. When the
Southern Foodways Alliance needed a title for their series of books collecting the best Southern food writing, they chose
Cornbread Nation.
Cornbread's enduring role in Southern cookery comes from its
ubiquity—it was the primary bread eaten in the region from the colonial
days until well into the 20th century. Though farmers in the Northeast
and Midwest cultivated thriving crops of wheat and rye, corn remained
the staple grain of the south, as European wheat withered and died of
rust in the region's heat and humidity.
For all but the wealthiest Southerners, the daily bread was cornbread.
For all but the wealthiest Southerners, the daily bread was cornbread. "In the interior of the country," a
New York Times
correspondent observed in an 1853 article about Texas, "cornbread forms
the staple article of diet—anything composed of wheat flour being about
as scarce as ice-cream in Sahara." Biscuits made from wheat flour are
very closely associated with the South, but for most Southerners they
were rare treats reserved for special occasions like Sunday dinner.
Early Cornbread
The simplest type of cornbread was corn pone, which was made from a
basic batter of cornmeal stirred with water and a little salt. It was
typically cooked in a greased iron skillet or Dutch oven placed directly
on hot coals. An iron lid was put on top and covered with a layer of
embers, too, so the bread was heated from both bottom and top and baked
within the pan.
Over time, the basic pone recipe was enhanced to become cornbread.
Cooks first added buttermilk and a little baking soda to help it rise.
Later, eggs and baking powder made their way into many recipes. But
there are two ingredients you almost never see in any recipes before the
20th century: wheat flour and sugar.
In 1892, a
Times correspondent, after enumerating the many
types of corn-based breads eaten in Virginia, noted, "It will be
observed that in none of them is sugar used. There are cornmeal puddings
served with sweet sauces, but no Southern cook would risk the spoiling
of her cornbreads by sweetening them."
In 1937, the
Times reported that "cornbread in Kentucky is
made with white, coarsely ground cornmeal. Never, never are sugar and
wheat flour used in cornbread. Water-ground cornmeal and water-ground
whole wheat flour have still a market in Kentucky and are still used
with delight."
Changing the Recipe
So why were cooks so unanimous on the subject of sugar and wheat
flour up through the 1930s and so divided on it today? That mention of
Kentucky's lingering market for "water-ground" meal provides an
important clue, for a huge shift occurred in the cornmeal market in the
early part of the 20th century, one that changed the very nature of
cornmeal and forced cooks to alter their cornbread recipes.
There's no better source to turn to to understand these changes than Glenn Roberts of
Anson Mills
in Columbia, South Carolina. In the 1990s, Roberts embarked on a
single-minded mission to help rediscover and revive the rich variety of
grains that were all but lost amid the industrialization of agriculture
and food production. He's cultivated a network of farmers to grow
heirloom corn, rice, and other grains, and he launched Anson Mills to
mill them in traditional ways and distribute them to restaurant chefs
and home cooks.
During the 19th century, Roberts says, toll milling was the way most
farm families got the meal for their cornbread. Farmers took their own
corn to the local mill and had it ground into enough cornmeal for their
families, leaving behind some behind as a toll to pay the miller. "With
toll milling, it was three bags in, three bags out," Roberts explains.
"A person could walk or mule in with three bags, take three bags home,
and still get chores done."
The mills were typically water-powered and used large millstones to
grind the corn. Starting around 1900, however, new "roller mills" using
cylindrical steel rollers began to be introduced in the South. Large
milling companies set up roller operations in the towns and cities and
began taking business away from the smaller toll mills out in the
countryside. "The bottom line is they went off stone milling because the
economies didn't make sense," Roberts says, "which is why stone milling
collapsed after the Depression."
Unlike stone mills, steel roller mills eliminate much of the corn
kernel, including the germ; doing so makes the corn shelf stable but
also robs it of much flavor and nutrition. The friction of steel rolling
generates a lot of heat, too, which further erodes corn's natural
flavor. Perhaps the most significant difference, though, is the size of
the resulting meal.
"If you're toll milling," Roberts says, "you're using one screen.
It's just like a backdoor screen. If you put the grits onto that screen
and shake it, coarse cornmeal is going to fall through. The diverse
particle size in that cornmeal is stunning when compared to a [steel]
roller mill."
When cornmeal's texture changed, cooks had to adjust their recipes.
"There's a certain minimum particle size required to react with chemical
leaven," Roberts says. "If you are using [meal from a roller mill]
you're not going to get nearly the lift. You get a crumbly texture, and
you need to augment the bread with wheat flour, or you're getting cake."
The change from stone to steel milling is likely what prompted cooks
to start putting sugar in their cornbread, too. In the old days,
Southerners typically ground their meal from varieties known as dent
corn, so called because there's a dent in the top of each kernel. The
corn was hard and dry when it was milled, since it had been "field
ripened" by being left in the field and allowed to dry completely.
High-volume steel millers started using corn harvested unripe and
dried with forced air, which had less sweetness and corny flavor than
its field-ripened counterpart. "You put sugar in the cornmeal because
you are not working with brix corn," Roberts says, using the trade term
for sugar content. "There's no reason to add sugar if you have good
corn."
Today's Cornmeal
By the end of the Depression, old fashioned stone-ground cornmeal and
grits had all but disappeared from the South, replaced by paper bags of
finely-ground corn powder. The new cornmeal tended to be yellow, while
the meal used for cornbread in much of the coastal South traditionally
had been white. (There is a whole complex set of issues associated with
the color of cornmeal that will have to wait for a later time.)
Cooks who paid attention knew there was a difference. "A very
different product from the yellow cornmeal of the North is this white
water-ground meal of the South," wrote Dorothy Robinson in the
Richmond Times Dispatch
in 1952. "The two are not interchangeable in recipes. Most standard
cookbooks, with the exception of a comparative few devoted to Southern
cooking, have concerned themselves with yellow cornmeal recipes as if
they did not know any other kind! They do not even distinguish between
the two. They simply say, naively, 'a cup of cornmeal' when listing
ingredients in a recipe."
But even those who knew the difference had trouble finding the old
stone-ground stuff. In 1950, a desperate Mrs. Francine J. Parr of Houma,
Louisiana, posted a notice in the
Times-Picayune with the
headline "Who's Got Coarse Grits?" and explained, "the only grits we can
get is very fine and no better than mush. In short, I'm advertising for
some grocer or other individual selling coarse grits to drop me a
line."
Making Proper Cornbread
Cornbread is just one of many traditional Southern foods that are
difficult to experience today in their original form for the simple
reason that today's ingredients just aren't the same. Buttermilk, rice,
benne seeds, watermelons, and even the whole hogs put on barbecue pits:
each has changed in fundamental ways over the course of the 20th
century.
But, thanks to historically-minded millers like Glenn Roberts and
others, it's getting a little bit easier to find real stone-ground
cornmeal again. Some are even using heirloom varieties of dent corn to
return the old flavor and sweetness to cornmeal and to grits, too.
The key to making good, authentic Southern cornbread is to use the
right tools and ingredients. That means cooking it in a black cast iron
skillet preheated in the oven so it's smoking hot when the batter hits
the pan, causing the edges of the bread to brown. That batter should be
made with the best buttermilk possible (real buttermilk if you can find
it, which isn't easy).
And you shouldn't use a grain of wheat flour or sugar. If you start
with an old fashioned stone-ground meal like the Anson Mills' Antebellum
Coarse White Cornmeal, you'll have no need for such adulterations.
this gentleman got it just right...follow this recipe!!
My dad and granddad have raised white dent corn for as long as I can remember, (i'm 51 my dad is 76). I use to go with them when they would take a sack of shelled corn to the miller to have it ground into corn meal. After the last old miller died in the area where I grew up, (southwest Virginia), my dad located and purchased a small stone mill and with the help of my granddad they brought it home and set it up. My dad is still raising his own white dent corn and grinding his own corn meal which he generously shares with me and many other folks in the community. I can tell you, it is nothing like the so called corn meal that you buy from the store. for the last 2 years he has raised a variety called Boone County White. Dad remembers raising it when he was growing up. The corn grows 15 feet tall and the ears of corn are can be as larges as 14 inches long and grow about 8 feet high on the stalk. I had never seen anything like it until 2 years ago when he raised the first patch of it. Truly "Corn as high as an elephants eye ...". I have seen a number of people requesting a recipe, so here it is and like most good things it is very simple.
If you like the bread about an inch to inch and a half thick us a #5 cast iron skillet, if you like it thinner then use a #7 or #8 cast iron skillet.
(The cast iron skillet needs to be well seasoned or the bread will stick)
Preheat you oven to 475. when the oven is hot put about a teaspoon or two of bacon grease in the skillet and slide it in the over on the top rack to heat up. While the skillet is heating, take a medium size mixing bowl and blend together:
1 1/2 cups of corn meal
1 tsp of salt
1 to 1 1/2 tsp of baking powder
1/4 tsp of baking soda
Add enough whole buttermilk to the dry ingredients to make a thick paste. If you like the cornbread kind of wet and heavy add a little extra buttermilk if you like it dry then use a little less.
When the skillet is good and hot, (the bacon grease will be starting to smoke), remove the skillet from the oven and pour in the batter and return it to the top rack of the oven. When the top is golden brown it is ready, about 15 to 20 minutes.